Exotic Asia, Third Culture Mothering

Spiritual Laos

In this valley along the Mekong river is where I first saw a flock of monks walk in their orange tunics, bringing their spirit to the breeze of this place. In a tiny airplane, and a smooth flight, it took us 60 minutes to get to Laos from Hanoi. Being our first time in this country, we chose to visit the ancient capital city of Luang Prabang: the city on monks. 

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We stayed at a small but mesmerizing hotel a few minutes from the center of the city. We were able to ride bicycles from the hotel to the night market and explore the surroundings which follow a path along the Mekong river. This city was the royal capital of the country until 1975, and is now home of many Buddhist temples and boys who become monks and wake up at 5 in the morning to collect offerings or bowls of rice as nourishment to learn, and then years later decide if a temple, meditation, and a selfless life is worth more than an ordinary life. In Laos boys have access to free education when they join the monks. They learn discipline and Buddhist practices, which later, once they turn 18, they have the free will to leave or stay. 

Our Hotel
Our Hotel

Asia is Asia: intense, exotic, colorful, and fast. However, in Laos I felt I was in a slow-motion part of Asia. Everything was gentle, smooth, people have a peaceful look, and unlike in Vietnam where you equally see both men and women working, sometimes more women, here in Laos I observed more men working. Luang Prabang is quiet, as if people are silently listening to the river. Motorbikes and bicycles move slower, there is no rush… just the breath and the stillness of the river.

Bert with Gaia in the Sling riding along the peaceful streets
Bert with Gaia in the Sling riding along the peaceful streets

The night market is more simple, there are no stalls, the shops lay on the street, it is like a quilt of products over the concrete. The smell of grilled food decorates the air coming from a tunnel-like food market where you can order fish, chicken, meat or pork, as you are served with the kindest of smiles. 

Night Market Lady
Night Market Lady

I am not fond of pork for health reasons (and taste), but here, the Laotian sausage is a blend of pork with lemongrass, garlic, and lime among other delicate ingredients.  The taste is so delicate that your tongue can barely sense the taste of pork. If you are curious, here is the recipe. This was our favorite dish. Early in the morning  for $25 we rode a boat for 30 minutes along the Mekong River, it was cold, but the wind and the sound of the water snuggled me as I watched Gaia smile in the excitement of being in a long, rustic boat. 

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During this short stay, our only tourist outing was to the Elephant Village. The little bus picked us at the hotel and I got to talk to our tour guide, whom interestingly had been a monk in his early years. He explained how this life is an advantage when parents cannot afford education for their sons. He left the temple when he reached 18 years, and was grateful for his peaceful upbringing by the monks, however, the life of 4 am in the morning with prayer and meditation throughout the day was not what he wanted for his life. He is now a tour guide for the Elephant Village, and really enjoys talking to people.  The sanctuary of Elephant Village is home for elephants who are rescued from hash and abusive environments. In this beautiful, self-sustained place they are protected and rehabilitated, and the village supports local communities by creating employment under fair social circumstances. I was very pleased to learn that elephants are directed through words as well as a gentle ear tap, as opposed to the use of a hook-like tool which is what I saw in the Elephant Camp in Chiang Mai, and now I know better.

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If you are visiting animal camps make sure to support those that are fair to the animals, mostly rescue centers like this one, as well as fair labour in the community, operating under a principle of Care & Share. The elephants do rides which are easy labour for them, and they get to roam freely in the jungle in herds, as well as being able to mate. The elephants have professional care from veterinarians, who also train the mahouts (elephant caregiver), ensuring that the elephants receive ongoing, high-quality attention.

Bert got to be a "mahout" for a minute
Bert got to be a “mahout” for a minute

We were very happy and grateful to show Gaia the “natural” way to see animals. Although the trunks were too much on her face, she was able to see the baby elephants ride along their mums.  We also took a small boat to the jungle where we saw two baby elephants, and with our help, Gaia fed them bananas. 

On our way to see the baby elephants in the jungle
On our way to see the baby elephants in the jungle

At the end of our elephant tour we had lunch with a lovely couple in a kiosk that oversaw the beautiful river, and there was so much peace in the air while we watched a relaxed river, the elephants walking around, as others took people out on rides. 

This was our view while having luch
This was our view while having lunch
This Waterfall
This Waterfall

On our way back to the hotel we stopped at a small, but magnificent Kuang Si waterfalls. The further you go, the more impressive the waterfalls become. We stayed in the lower area. The clear cold water was refreshing, and it made me remember how blessed we are to have our day to day lives. To be able to travel and show our daughter biodiversity and that there is fairness and good despite some harsh situations. We are eating the world together, wishing that one day she continues to do so on her own.

Gaia: my aquatic unicorn
Gaia: my aquatic unicorn

In Laos I tasted peace, in Laos I watched mindful people spread smiles and kindness with their humble looks. In Laos I learned to appreciate simplicity, hoping that maybe one day we can call this beautiful green country: home.

Tuk Tuk back to the hotel
Tuk Tuk back to the hotel

 

 

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